Meta Fock, personal business, one last museum

Metta Fock, my gggg grandmother, embroidered an appeal while imprisoned at the Carlsten's Fortress which is kept by the Nordic Museum. My request for a physical showing was denied due to time constraints and lack of personnel. At least that''s what the email response stated.

This morning I had a couple of items of personal business. I had as yet to reserve a rental car while in Kalmar and I needed to make one last train reservation from Kalmar to Copenhagen. I got a bit of a shock when finishing the train reservation and giving the app my credit card. Citi Bank Visa asked to send me a verification code to my phone. Oh no! I didn't see that coming. I had changed sims and now had a different phone number. I needed to change sim cards back to my US number to get the code but didn't have a sim tool nor a needle. 

Another item on today's agenda was to get some personal laundry done. Unless I packed 3 weeks of underwear, I knew I would need to do laundry or have it done. Luckily there was a cleaners on the same block as the hotel which also does personal laundry. They also had needles and pins which I could use in place of a sim tool. Two problems solved in one stop.

I changed sims, finished the reservations, changed sims back again and set out for the day.

The last museum on my list was the Moderna Museet - The Modern Art Museum. My two most favorite arts are the old classics of Monet, Van Gogh, etc and modern art. The Moderna Museet did not disappoint. 

There was an entire room in miniature of the paintings in the Sistine Chapel. 

But my four favorites were:

If you enlarge it enough to see the little painting on the wall, it makes sense.

Yes, those are 5 life sized horses which I believe are taxidermy. 

A modern interpretation of Ringo?

My favorite. 

 I am grateful that I have walked to most of the places I have visited in Stockholm. I have walked off 10 pounds! However, when I return after my side trip to the Carlsten's Fortress I will be taking a new mode of transportation. I'll leave that bit of information hanging until I return on Sunday.

Dinner was risotto pescatore at a local Italian restaurant, Ciao Ciao Grande. Very delicious. 

Tomorrow is a travel day. I catch a 11:34AM train out of Stockholm Central to Gõteborg. It's a 3 hour high speed rail from Stockholm to the west coast of Sweden through the Swedish country. I am looking forward to the experience. Then a 75 minute bus ride to Malstrand and a 10 minute walk to the Carlsten's Fortress where I will be staying for two nights. 

I am hoping to be able to visit the cell where Metta Fock was imprisoned.

Runestones - The Rune Kingdom

The region around Stockholm has the highest density of runestones in the world. Today I ventured out to find the Jarlabankes bro, the beginning of the Runriket. The Runriket is where 9 sites of runestones are located.

I had done some research before making my trip to Sweden. And one of the days I had allotted to the Runriket. However, I learned today that one of the websites I had used for my research was riddled with errors in distance. Where the website stated that the Runriket spanned 3.5 miles around Lake Vallentuna, it turns out the distance is 35 kilometers. Where the website stated that Runriket was 2.5 miles north of Stockholm, it is 25 kilometers. 

I didn't realize the errors of distance until I was on the third site of runestones. I was out in the Swedish countryside using Google Maps and seeing that the distance to the fourth site was another 3 kilometers of walking. That was when I tapped out and used a local bus to retrace my steps back to the Jarlabankes bro, the bridge that marks the beginning of the Runriket. 

I left my hotel in the morning and followed the Google Map directions using the subway and a local bus arriving at Jarlabankes bro around 11AM.

There I encountered my very first runesones. 

I then set out to find the second location, a church in Täby Kyrkby. I probably should have become aware of the distance problem when it took me 20 minutes walking to get from the Jarlabankes bro to the church. At the church there were two more runestones. What was curious was that the runestones were part of the churches foundation!

The third location is where I decided that I had made an error in my research, the Broby bro. I had walked out into the Swedish countryside on a road that did not have a foot path. I looked on Google Maps and saw that the fourth location was another 3 kilometers of walking.

I retraced my steps back to the main road and hopped on a local bus taking me back to the place I had started. There I asked a friendly tourist if she would kindly take my picture with the first runestone I had encountered.

I made my way back to my hotel to freshen up. It was around 4:30 and a trip to the sushi bar just a block from my hotel sounded good. I ordered a 10 piece 'Dragon Roll' as all that walking made me extra hungry.

The Nordic Museum - Stockholm

Today I set out with three things on my agenda:

1. Get a Swedish Telia sim card for my iPhone. I rarely use even 1 GB of data in my monthly cellular service and yesterday I got a message while trying to use Google Maps that I was no longer connected to the internet. Turns out my Comcast cellular of 1 GB was exceeded and I was cut off from using anymore data. So I bought a Telia prepaid service of 100 GB for $46 to use during the rest of my stay abroad. Problem solved. Only now I have a new telephone number.

2. Visit the Nordic Museum where Metta Fock's appeal of embroidery is housed. Metta Fock is my gggg grandmother who has a very interesting story which is outlined on a Wikipedia page linked above.

3. Have Swedish meatballs for dinner.

I loaded up on breakfast as has been my usual at my hotel and set out after to find a local Telia store. Goggle Maps showed it as a 15 minute walk from the hotel which proved to be through a gorgeous area of Stockholm.

A very helpful Telia store employee got me squared away in a rather painless 30 minutes. I am a bit nervous though. I have to hold on to my very tiny original sim card and replace it when I leave Copenhagen in a little over two weeks.

From the Telia store I headed out to the Nordiska Museet using Google Maps directions which was another 15 minute walk. I am grateful for the exercise I am getting each day walking as I have lost weight since starting this trip. 

I purchased my museum ticket and asked the clerk if I could talk with a museum supervisor. I explained that I was a descendant of Metta Fock and would like to physically view her embroidery appeal. The embroidery is exhibited only though digital display by the museum. The clerk explained that since this was Monday no museum staff were working that could address my request. However, she kindly wrote the archival directors email address on a card for me. I planned to later send off an email with my request.

The Nordiska Museet proved to be very interesting. There were several floors of exhibits. Beginning on the 4th floor the exhibits began at the year 1500 and ended at the year 2000. I spent over an hour at the museum.

Another 15 minute walk back to my hotel to freshen up, send off the inquiry email and again use Google Maps to find a restaurant close by that served Swedish meatballs.

Mom's Kitchen has over 1300 reviews with an average 4.6 stars. A short 5 minute walk from my hotel and I enjoyed a traditional Swedish meatball late lunch which included mashed potatoes and ligonberry sauce. Coffee was complimentary.

I decided I could use some snacks in my room and shopped at a local market called Lidl a short 4 minute walk. I am holed up in my hotel for the rest of the day reading, drinking tea, writing this blog and enjoying a snack or two.

Sonia Holz - Genealogist

Today was a special day for me in Sweden. I met my Swedish genealogist, Sonia Holz at her home in Södertälje. Södertälje is a southwestern suburb of Stockholm and about a 25 minute train ride from Stockholm Central Station. Sonia and I have been working together on locating my Swedish ancestors for the last 14 years. And today we finally met in person.

Making the trip to Södertälje proved to be an adventure. I had as yet taken the subway or "pendel tåget", local commuter train, since arriving in Sweden. All of the places I have visited so far I have walked to. But today, to get from my hotel to Sonia's place, I needed to take the subway and a commuter train to Södertälje.

The taxi from Stockholm Central to my hotel when I arrived was the equivalent of $44. The subway from the closest subway station to my hotel (two blocks) at Östernalmstorg to Stockholm Central was $2.60. And so long as I traveled within the next 75 minutes, I could use the same ticket to get to Södertälje via the commuter train. So getting to Sonia's and back was a little over $5. Next time.

The commuter train both to Södertälje and returning to Stockholm Central was comfortable. Personally I enjoy taking trains. It's one of the things I enjoyed most during the many times I visited England where my dad lived until passing in 2010. 

I left my hotel at 11:15 this morning to give myself plenty of time to get to the 2pm appointment Sonia and I agreed to meet at her home. Turns out I didn't need all that time so I ended up taking in some local sites in Södertälje before taking a taxi to Sonia's apartment on the outskirts of Södertälje. 

Sonia, her two adult children and I had a traditional Swedish cafe fitka. Which is basically coffee and conversation while enjoying various pastries and cookies. Her son, Manfred, is a journalist who specializes in motorcycle reviews. Her daughter, Susanne, is a registered nurse at a local hospital. We chatted each other up during the next two hours talking about everything from Covid to NATO, which Sweden became a member just a few months ago. 

After Sonia and I said our goodbyes, Sonia's daughter gave me a ride to the Södertälje train station. Manfred joined us as he lives 100m from the train station. 

I got back to my hotel around 5:30 retracing my steps and connections I used to get to Södertälje. I got a bite at a sushi restaurant that is a 3 minute walk from my hotel. The California roll (I couldn't help myself) and the miso soup were every bit as good as I've had anywhere. Well maybe not the sushi I had while in Tokyo. 

I feel like my jet lag is waning. Tomorrow I look forward to exploring more of Stockholm. Meta Fock's embroidery is housed at the Nordic Museum close to the Vasa Museum I have already visited. I am hoping I can get a physical showing of the embroidery as the museum shows it is part of only a digital exhibit.

Stockholm - Day two

The hotel's breakfast is a smorgasbord of breads, meats, cheeses and eggs with jams and other spreads. Coffee, teas and fruit juices as well. By the time breakfast rolls around I am hungry and take full advantage. Which has proven to be a good strategy. I find I can get to mid afternoon until I am hungry again.

Today I decided I would visit two museums. The Swedish History Museum and the National Museum. 

Google Maps showed the Swedish History Museum as a 9 minute walk from my hotel and I decided to visit that one first. The museum has an exhibit that shows 1000 years of Swedish History starting from the year 1100 right up to the present day. Each century is depicted in separate exhibits with a timeline map on the floor. Sweden didn't actually become a recognized country until June 6th, 1523. But all of the history leading up to that date and after is represented. In addition there is a separate Viking exhibit. I spent close to two hours browsing the exhibits. 

Google Maps showed the National Museum as a 16 minute walk from the hotel in the opposite direction from the Swedish History Museum. I took a brief break at the hotel on my way back where I refreshed my memory on the directions to the National Museum and set out about 1:30pm. When I got half way to the National Museum I lost track of where I was. For whatever reason my iPhone would not display the Google Maps directions and I needed to ask for directions. Turns out I was about 5 minutes off track in the wrong direction and needed to backtrack a bit before finding the National Museum. 

Everyone I have asked is ready and willing to help. And I have yet to be in contact with anyone who didn't speak perfect English. It seems like they are almost delighted to exercise their English language skills. I am humbled by the fact that I am not multi-lingual. But for me it would be a hobby rather than a useful skill to learn a second language. 

The walk to the National Museum was another gorgeous day in the beautiful city of Stockholm.

The National Museum proved to be almost overwhelming. Room after room of paintings, bronze and marble sculptures, silver table decorations and ornate furniture. It has been many years since I have visited an art museum and my mind was simply flooded with observing incredible beauty and creativity. I either need to travel more or visit San Francisco's museums more often.

After two hours at the National Museum I felt the pangs of hunger. I made the 16 minute walk back to my hotel. On the way I decided that I would take in the 3rd best burger in Sweden, a two minute walk from my hotel. Yes, I can attest that the burger was very good. A 3 napkin affair. Probably one of the top 3 burgers I have ever eaten which includes Michael Minna's at the Palace Hotel in San Francisco. The place is called bap - Burgers and Pastrami in case you ever visit Stockholm. And reasonably priced! A double burger, fries and a coffee for $24.

Back at the hotel at around 5pm and I am again going to spend the rest of the day in my room reading my novel and resting my still jet lagged bones.

 

First Day in Stockholm

My first day out exploring Stockholm got a late start. 

When I booked my reservations at the hotel the only room available the first day was a single room with no window. The hotel was completely full so I had to wait until someone checked out and the cleaning service had readied my next room. A double with a window. I was told on checkin that worst case it would be 12pm before I could change rooms.

I changed rooms at 11am after a fantastic complimentary breakfast. I used Google Maps to find my first destination, Djurgãrden, where the Vasa Museum and other Stockholm attractions are located. Google Maps showed that the Vasa Museum was a short 20 minute walk of 1.6 km or about 1 mile from my hotel. A nice leisurely walk on a gorgeous day in Stockholm.

The Vasa Museum houses the Swedish warship Vasa that sunk after sailing just 1300 meters on its maiden voyage in the summer of 1628. This after two years of construction in the Stockholm shipyard. The Vasa has impressive craftsmanship and an absolute fiasco of engineering all in one. 30 men running from one side of the ship to the other was enough to roll the Vasa! I spent almost two hours on the 3 floors of Vasa observation walkways and the exhibits. The following photo is of the Vasa's stern.

My next stop was the Viking Museum also in the Djurgãrden. I joined an English speaking tour that just started as I bought my ticket. The tour guide was enthusiastic and entertaining. The museum is small but has a comprehensive collection of Viking artifacts and exhibits. I left shortly after the tour ended, about 30 minutes.

I walked back to my hotel to refresh myself and get Google Maps directions to Ǒstermalmshallen where I wanted to get a bite to eat. The indoor market is described as a foodie paradise, offering a wide selection of fresh produce, seafood, meat, cheese, and gourmet specialties. Google Maps showed it as a 4 minute walk from my hotel. The market is as impressive as the description. The variety of seafood was amazing and the selection of gourmet items included bear and reindeer sausage. After exploring the entire market, I settled on a smoked salmon and cream cheese salad at one of the many vendors. 

My energy after lunch needed a boost, so I opted for a cup of coffee at one of the markets vendors. I sat outside enjoying the strong black coffee and people watched for 45 minutes before again returning to my hotel.

I got back to my hotel around 5 and decided not to venture out again. My energy for the day was waning and the jet lag was compounding my fatigue. I spent the rest of the day writing out my blog and reading my latest novel. 

Travel Day - Getting there

Getting to my hotel in Stockholm from Novato was a looooong travel day. I left my house in Novato via Uber at 11:15AM local time on May 22nd and checked into my hotel in Stockholm  at 6:15PM local time on May 23rd.

Total travel time - 22 hours

The flight from SFO to Copenhagen took 10 1/2 hours. It was a comfortable flight even though it was long. The food was good and the airline staff were pleasant and attentive. Two meals were served. Dinner about 2 hours after takeoff. Breakfast about 2 hours before landing in Copenhagen. Two cups of coffee with breakfast and I was good to go for the rest of my travel day. 

The flight from Copenhagen to Stockholm was about an hour and a half after a two hour layover. Again it was a reasonable flight with friendly and attentive staff.

Customs at ARN was absolutely the easiest I have ever been through. I got my checked bag and simply wheeled it and my backpack carry-on right through to the taxi station without stopping. Although I had the suspicion that my bag was looked at somewhere along the way. The zippers didn't seem to be in the same position as I had them in when I left Novato. I could be wrong.

I took the Arlanda Express train from the Stockholm airport to Stockholm Central station. It's a high speed rail that takes just 18 minutes at a top speed of 200km per hour. As I rode the train through the scenic country between ARN and Stockholm Central, a feeling of belonging enveloped me. After all, I was in the country of the majority of my ancestry. 

The one glitch in the trip was the taxi from Stockholm Central to my hotel, Unique Hotel at 7A Junfrugatan. $44. This for what Google Maps states is 2.6 km and should take 11 minutes. Sonia Holz tells me to save my receipt and I might be able to get some relief. 

After checking in and getting somewhat settled I set out to get a bite to eat and then get a good nights sleep. Less than a block from my hotel were a couple of restaurants. I choose the one serving burgers and sandwiches. I had a very good pastrami sandwich. The waiter proudly stated they were voted 3rd best burgers in all of Sweden with the top two being food trucks. Of course I'll return for a burger. I have a total of 11 days in Stockholm at this same hotel.

I came back to the hotel and lights were out at 9PM local time. Snore.

Itinerary

Modern travel imposes many conditions, especially international travel. Last minute reservations are a thing of the past. Unless you’re willing to pay additional charges and assume the added risk of not getting what you want. Hotels in the more desired neighborhoods, convenient train schedules and seats facing the direction of travel, etc. 

The good news is that hotels, trains, rental cars and even buses have online booking sites. The flip side is there is an additional charge for bookings that you may want to change in the future. So planning ahead is a consideration.

I booked my flights in March and all of my hotels in April. I have one train left to book and that can wait until next week when the trains booking system gets an upgrade for booking travel after June 4th.

The following is my itinerary for the entire three weeks of travel to Sweden and Denmark:

May 22nd - Flights from Ssn Francisco to Stockholm

LV - 17:40 SFO SAS SK 936

AR - 13:20 Copenhagen

LV - 15:30 Copenhagen   SAS SK 1424

AR - 16:45 Stockholm

May 23rd - May 29th - Unique Hotel Jungfrugatan, Stockholm, Sweden

https://uniquehotel.se/unique-hotel-jungfrugatan-7a/

May 30th - May 31st - Carlstens Soldathotellet, Marstrand, Sweden

https://carlstenssoldathotell.se/en/

June 1st - June 4th - Unique Hotel Jungfrugatan, Stockholm, Sweden

https://uniquehotel.se/unique-hotel-jungfrugatan-7a/

June 5th - June 9th - Slottshotellet, Kalmar Sweden

https://slottshotellet.se

June 10th - June 12th - Scandic Sydhaven, Copenhagen, Denmark

https://www.scandichotels.com/hotels/denmark/copenhagen/scandic-sydhavnen

June 13th - Flight from Copenhagen to San Francisco

LV - 13:30 Copenhagen

AR - 15:50 SFO